Ij. Losada et al., EFFECTS OF REFLECTIVE VERTICAL STRUCTURES PERMEABILITY ON RANDOM WAVEKINEMATICS, Journal of waterway, port, coastal, and ocean engineering, 123(6), 1997, pp. 347-353
Two simple numerical models are presented to estimate the root-mean-sq
uared velocity for random nonbreaking waves obliquely incident on part
ially reflecting coastal structures. The structures considered are ver
tical permeable structures with a free surface or crowned. The models
are also capable of simulating the case of an impermeable vertical wal
l. Results depend on the input spectrum, breakwater geometry, and poro
us material characteristics. All this information is considered in the
calculated complex reflection coefficient, which has information not
only on the modulus of the reflection for each of the wave components,
but also on the reflection-induced phase shift.