In this article we reflect upon the continued significance of Melanesi
an ethnography to anthropology. To do so, we consider what of importan
ce has compelled us to return frequently to Papua New Guinea. Focusing
primarily on a confrontation between a Chambri big man and a Chambri
evangelical woman, we establish what we think remains (rather) unique
about contemporary Papua New Guinea (and perhaps about Melanesia more
generally). Our analysis shows Papua New Guinea as a place where the g
lobal intersects the local in axiomatically condensed form. Within the
lifetimes of most adults, colonialism, missionization, military occup
ation, independence, development, transnational capitalism, and charis
matic Christianity have all provided contexts in which a diversity of
local peoples, responding to the extensive transformation of their liv
es, have generated a range of desires and an active sense of the possi
bility of enacting those desires. Our analysis reveals, thus, a preocc
upation with local agency that demonstrates with instructive immediacy
the contingency and variability characteristic of the local instantia
tion and shaping of global processes.