WAVE GROUPING AND SEQUENTIAL CORRELATION, FIELD STUDIES IN ITALIAN COASTAL AREAS

Citation
A. Lamberti et V. Rossi, WAVE GROUPING AND SEQUENTIAL CORRELATION, FIELD STUDIES IN ITALIAN COASTAL AREAS, Coastal engineering, 21(4), 1993, pp. 271-300
Citations number
40
Categorie Soggetti
Engineering, Marine
Journal title
ISSN journal
03783839
Volume
21
Issue
4
Year of publication
1993
Pages
271 - 300
Database
ISI
SICI code
0378-3839(1993)21:4<271:WGASCF>2.0.ZU;2-B
Abstract
Existing theories about wave grouping are compared; Kimura's theory is shown to fit experimental statistics closest. The statistics derived from records taken at five sites of the ENEL wave measuring network ar e compared favorably with the corresponding values predicted by Kimura 's theory. The discrepancy ratios are greater for greater depth sites and for low threshold values. They are however limited: the mean group length discrepancy is about 5% on the average, and less than 17% for the worst class. The divergence from Kimura theoretical scheme is show n to be due to the approximations necessary to reduce the analytical p roblem within the Markov processes sphere, the intrinsic difference be tween the wave height and twice the envelope amplitude, the variabilit y of actual wave periods and the bias of the statistics employed for r un length. Finally, the sequential correlation of wave characteristics is examined and the hypothesis that waves form a first order Markovia n process is tested.