MEDIUM-TERM 2DH COASTAL AREA MODELING

The state-of-the-art in depth-averaged mathematical modelling of 3-D c oastal morphology is described for the medium-term morphodynamic model type, in which constituent models of waves, currents and sediment tra nsport based on first physical principles are linked together to descr ibe the time-evolution of the bed topography. Various aspects of the c ombined system of equations are discussed, such as its mathematical ch aracter, its inherent stability and its equilibrium state. The results of an intercomparison of different models are shown for two test case s and the potentials and limitations of the model concept are discusse d.