Av. Rawlings et al., CHANGES IN STRATUM-CORNEUM LIPID AND DESMOSOME STRUCTURE TOGETHER WITH WATER BARRIER FUNCTION DURING MECHANICAL-STRESS, Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 46(3), 1995, pp. 141-151
The elastic properties of the stratum corneum have been examined by ma
ny investigators, bur the morphological evidence for changes in the st
ructure of stratum corneum cohesive elements, lipids and desmosomes, d
uring mechanical extension remains sparse. Additionally, little is kno
wn of the effect of mechanical stress on stratum corneum water barrier
function. In this study we have examined in detail changes in the str
ucture of the stratum corneum intercellular lipids and desmosomes duri
ng linear extension studies on isolated stratum corneum in vitro. Ultr
astructural changes have been investigated by electron microscopy, and
barrier function has been assessed by measuring water loss through th
e tissue. Initially, at low extensions of the stratum corneum the stru
cture of the intercellular bilayer lipids appeared normal, during furt
her extension their membrane structure became disrupted, and with cont
inued extension they became progressively disorganized. Desmosomes, by
comparison, were more resilient structures, only being perturbed afte
r large extensions during which intercorneocyte desmosomal links were
observed to rupture just before the complete fracture of the tissue. T
hese events were associated with increased water loss through the stra
tum corneum. Ii these in vitro events are paralleled in vivo, it appea
rs that stratum corneum lipids are sufficiently fluid to maintain barr
ier function during small extensions of the skin surface. However, fol
lowing large extensions the structural changes could lead to perturbed
water barrier function, desmosome rupture, and aberrant desquamation,
resulting in the appearance of xerotic skin conditions.