Advanced sewing machines should be able to set up automatically, detec
t sewing faults, and self-adjust to required settings. In order to ach
ieve this objective, a sewing machine has been instrumented with senso
rs, so that wave forms of needle penetration and withdrawal forces, pr
esser foot compression force, and sewing thread tensions can be captur
ed and analyzed. This study makes it possible to understand the dynami
cs of sewing at the various interfaces-sewing thread/fabric, sewing th
read/sewing machine, fabric/sewing machine-and to develop a computer p
rogram and adequate hardware to control the sewing operation through a
n ''on-line adaptive control system.'' In addition, the equipment can
also be used to develop sewing specifications, for quick set up, and t
o test sewability.