SEWING PERFORMANCE OF COTTON LYCRA KNITTED FABRICS

This paper describes a computer-based system installed on industrial l ockstitch and overlock stitch sewing machines. The system uses commerc ial hardware and developed software to acquire and analyze the collect ed signals of needle thread tension, presser foot displacement, presse r foot pressure, and needle penetration/withdrawal forces. The effects of sewing speed, needle size, and the number of plies of a fabric sew n together on variations in measured needle penetration and withdrawal forces are investigated.