EFFECTS OF PROTEOLYTIC AND LIPOLYTIC ENZYMES ON UNTREATED AND SHRINK-RESIST-TREATED WOOL

There is increasing interest in the use of enzymes in wool-processing, particularly in the context of replacing processes which are nowadays regarded as environmentally unacceptable, The work reported in this p aper was initiated in the context of improving wool care in domestic w ashing and has established techniques for monitoring the complex effec ts of surfactants on the properties of wool, The same techniques will be of value in the development of new, enzyme-based wool-processing te chnologies. It is shown that the location of enzymatic attack at a giv en pH is strongly influenced by the enzyme concentration and reaction time, Polymers applied in the course of shrink-resist finishing can de lay enzymatic attack, but, in general, dyeing and oxidative processes leave the fibre more susceptible to enzymatic degradation. Adsorbed pr otease was not easily removed from treated fibres, and enzyme retained after rinsing and drying is shown to cause further degradation under ambient storage conditions, All washing processes increased fabric-she ar stiffness, but treatments involving lipolytic or proteolytic enzyme s produced a perceived softening effect, which is attributed to a redu ction in fibre-bending stiffness.