Av. Rawlings et al., ABNORMALITIES IN STRATUM-CORNEUM STRUCTURE, LIPID-COMPOSITION, AND DESMOSOME DEGRADATION IN SOAP-INDUCED WINTER XEROSIS, Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 45(4), 1994, pp. 203-220
In an attempt to understand the underlying biochemical and morphologic
al abnormalities that lead to the physical appearance of xerosis, we h
ave examined lipids and desmosomes in stratum corneum of normal and so
ap-induced winter xerotic skin. In normal skin, electron microscopy re
vealed lipid bilayers in the lower layers of the stratum corneum that
were absent in the upper layers. In addition, desmosomes were present
in che lower stratum corneum bur underwent degradation cowards the upp
er surface of the stratum corneum. These observations contrasted with
xerotic skin, which had disorganized lipid bilayers in the upper strat
um corneum, although apparently normal lipid bilayers in the deeper ti
ssue regions. Also, desmosomes remained undegraded in the upper layers
of the xerotic stratum corneum, a finding corroborated by western blo
tting showing increased levels of desmoglein 1. Chromatographic analys
is of stratum corneum lipids showed decreased ceramide and increased f
atty acid levels in subjects with xerosis compared with normal individ
uals, particularly in the outer stratum corneum layers. Although ceram
ides were lost from the stratum corneum, the increased levels of fatty
acids may be due in part to the deposition of soap fatty acids. Our r
esults support previous studies demonstrating the importance of desmos
omal degradation in desquamation. Furthermore, we have been able to sh
ow changes in the normal membrane structure of intracellular lipids in
the desquamating layers of the stratum corneum. These studies also pr
ovide new insights into soap-induced winter xerosis, revealing abnorma
lities in stratum corneum lipid composition and organization together
with reduced desmosomal degradation.