INTERNAL LIPID WOOL STRUCTURE MODIFICATION DUE TO A NONIONIC AUXILIARY USED IN DYEING AT LOW-TEMPERATURES

An analytical and microscopical study of wool fibers differently treat ed with a non-ionic dye auxiliary product such as Baylan NT elucidates the action mechanism of this compound in low temperature dyeing of wo ol. Lipids are extracted from wool samples previously treated with Bay lan NT, and the compounds are analyzed quantitatively with thin layer chromatography coupled to a name ionization detection system. Previous solubilization of free fatty acids by the Baylan treatment is conside red to be the main cause of some changes in the lipid morphological st ructure, resulting in the release of ceramides in subsequent solvent e xtraction. These are found in a significantly higher amount in the ext ract of the wool treated with the auxiliary compound. Furthermore, the microscopical study shows higher penetration of the fluorescent dye i n wool fibers treated with the auxiliary compound, thereby confirming the importance of cell membrane complex modification in the improving the dyeing characteristics of wool and permitting dyeing at low temper atures.