A method was developed to measure in vitro on human skin the effective
ness of barrier creams against three dyes (eosin, methyl-violet and oi
l red O) with different n-octanol/water partition coefficients (0.19,
29.8 and 165, respectively). Some galenic properties (water washabilit
y, water content and viscosity) of the products were also evaluated to
try to understand the mechanisms of such a protection. The barrier cr
eams were assayed by measurements of the dyes in the epidermis of prot
ected skin samples after an application time of 30 min. Whereas some p
roducts showed some degree of protection, as claimed on the packaging,
we demonstrated in several cases disagreement with the manufacturer's
information. Surprisingly, petrolatum was found to provide the best p
rotection of all tested products in our in vitro model. There was no c
orrelation between the galenic parameters of the assayed products and
the level of protections, indicating that neither the water content no
r the consistence of the formulations influenced the protection effect
iveness. In conclusion, regarding the possible skin effects of some ir
ritants, our results stress that barrier creams should be used with ca
ution, knowing the protection limits of some of the formulations marke
ted.