ANALYSIS OF SEA-STATE COMPOSITION USING DIRECTIONAL WAVE MEASUREMENTS

Directional wave measurements over the shelf off west coast of India s howing the presence of wind-seas from NNW and swells from SSW along wi th simultaneous measurements of wind speed and direction have been ana lysed to study the significant features of wind and wave evolution pro cesses and exchange between wind-seas and swells for accurate estimati on of sea-state composition. The analysis reveals that the proposed pa rameter (R(pz)), which is the ratio between computed peak period from significant wave height and prevailing wind speed using Kurseman's mea n wind-wave spectrum to the zero-upcrossing period, appears to be bett er compared with the other parameters used to describe the overall com position of a sea-state.