MECHANISTIC ROLE OF YARN AND FABRIC STRUCTURE IN DETERMINING TEAR RESISTANCE OF WOVEN CLOTH .1. UNDERSTANDING TONGUE TEAR

The goal of this study is to acquire an understanding of the manner in which cotton yarn properties (including structure) contribute to the tear resistance of woven fabrics as measured by the tongue tear test. Our approach to this overall goal is a three step process. First, we e xamined samples during and after failure to identify the important phe nomena that contribute to tearing strength, termed the subcomponents o f tear. Next, we designed tests to observe the isolated contributions of pull-in (of yarns into the del zone), pull-ahead (of yams towards t he untorn fabric), and yarn tenacity. Finally, in Part II of this pape r, we will describe a model based on a mechanical spring analogy that will allow us to predict load-displacement responses of woven fabrics being tom.