Ce. Synolakis et Je. Skjelbreia, EVOLUTION OF MAXIMUM AMPLITUDE OF SOLITARY WAVES ON PLANE BEACHES, Journal of waterway, port, coastal, and ocean engineering, 119(3), 1993, pp. 323-342
This paper presents a study of the transformation of solitary waves on
plane beaches. A series of laboratory experiments is presented to des
cribe the amplitude evolution of long waves; these experiments suggest
that at least four different regions exist for the functional variati
on of the maximum amplitude, two regions before and two regions after
breaking. Linear theory is used to provide an expression for the growt
h of solitary waves evolving first over constant depth and then over a
sloping bottom, including reflection. This result is shown to be equi
valent to the wave evolution expression known as Green's law, and the
limitations of Green's original derivation are discussed. Other existi
ng analytical results and certain empirical relationships are used to
produce a formulation consistent with the laboratory data with the obj
ective to model the entire process of solitary wave evolution.