THE 1ST ASCENT OF MOUNT EVEREST, 1953 - THE SOLUTION OF THE PROBLEM OF THE LAST 1000 FEET

Pugh's pioneering work at high altitude on Cho Oyu in 1952 dictated th e framework for the first ascent of Everest in 1953. He demonstrated t hat a flow rate of 4 litres of oxygen per minute in the open circuit s ets was necessary to provide a boost to performance sufficient to clim b Everest from a high camp, at 8600 m, with a safe return to the South Col (8000 m) in one day. Sleeping oxygen mitigated high altitude dete rioration, as did Pugh's insistence on a very high fluid intake to com bat dehydration. Together with adequate protection from the cold, whic h was less severe than predicted, these strategies resulted in all cli mbers who went above 8000 m being in good physical and mental conditio n.