C. Reich et Cr. Robbins, INTERACTIONS OF CATIONIC AND ANIONIC SURFACTANTS ON HAIR SURFACES - LIGHT-SCATTERING AND RADIOTRACER STUDIES, Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 44(5), 1993, pp. 263-278
Light-scattering techniques, supplemented by radiotracer studies, have
been used in this work to demonstrate formation on hair surfaces of i
nsoluble complexes between some common cationic conditioner actives an
d anionic lauryl and laureth sulfates. These complexes, which were fou
nd to be very dulling and resistant to cleaning by C12-based detergent
s, were shown to form in tress treatments and also in treatments of fu
ll heads of hair. Alkyl ether sulfates having hydrophobic chain length
s of 6, 8, or 10 were found not to form the above types of complexes o
n hair and were shown to be superior for use in cleaning conditioners.
In experiments with conditioner actives, contributions to buildup wer
e found from both conditioner and detergent deposition. In the case of
commercial conditioners, buildup was observed only as a result of exc
ess detergent deposition in the presence of conditioner. In both cases
, formation of insoluble complexes led to greatly reduced cleaning by
lauryl or laureth sulfate-based shampoos.