The development of new cosmetic formulations requires precise assessment of
their safety and efficacy. Today, legislation demands quality control comb
ined with severe safety measures, as well as a limited use of animals for s
uch testing (European Community directive 93/35/EEC). Consequently, safety
assessment protocols are oriented towards in vivo tests on human volunteers
and in vitro alternative methods to animal use, especially tissue engineer
ed skin substitutes. In this paper, dermal and skin equivalents developed i
n the laboratory are described. The applications of reconstructed epidermis
and skin substitutes for pharmaco-toxicological trials are also discussed.
These tissue models have been shown to be very useful tools to assess cuta
neous irritation, phototoxicity, photoprotection and to perform efficacy te
sts of cosmetic molecules and finished products. In conclusion, the authors
are confident that these in vitro models can contribute to reduce animal u
se for routine toxicity testing.