BOUSSINESQ MODELING OF WAVE-INDUCED HORIZONTAL PARTICLE VELOCITIES

A frequency-domain Boussinesq model with good linear shoaling, improve d linear dispersion characteristics and a dissipation formulation to a ccount for wave breaking is extended to include the computation of the vertical structure of the horizontal velocity. The extended model is used to predict bottom velocities and resulting velocity variance and skewness in (partially) breaking irregular waves. The comparison of me asured and computed velocity moments indicates that for moderately lon g waves the spectral Boussinesq model can be successfully used for sed iment transport purposes. For shorter waves the crest velocity values of the higher waves are significantly underestimated, and as a result the velocity skewness as well. (C) 1997 Elsevier Science B.V.