BREAKING CRITERION AND CHARACTERISTICS FOR SOLITARY WAVES ON SLOPES

Shoaling and breaking of solitary waves is computed on slopes from 1:1 00 to 1:8 using an experimentally validated fully nonlinear wave model based on potential how equations. Characteristics of waves are comput ed at and beyond the breaking point, and geometric self-similarities o f breakers are discussed as a function of wave height and bottom slope . No wave breaks for slopes steeper than 12 degrees. A breaking criter ion is derived for milder slopes, based on values of a nondimensional slope parameter S-o. This criterion predicts both whether waves will b reak or not and which type of breaking will occur (spilling, plunging, or surging). Empirical expressions for the breaking index and for the depth and celerity at breaking are derived based on computations. All results agree well with laboratory experiments. The nonlinear shallow water equations fail to predict these results with sufficient accurac y at the breaking point. Prebreaking shoaling rates follow a more comp lex path than previously realized. Postbreaking behaviors exhibit a ra pid (nondissipative) decay, also observed in experiments, associated w ith a transfer of potential energy into kinetic energy. Wave celerity decreases in this zone of rapid decay.