The Rwandan genocide of 1994, in which as many as 800, 000 Tutsi and m
oderate Hutu were killed, ended when a Tutsi-led rebel army swept down
from Uganda and conquered the country, sending most of the government
's forces and the civilian corps of killers into exile in neighboring
Zaire. With them went hundreds of thousands of other Hutu who, though
they may have been innocent of participating in the genocide, feared r
etribution at the hands of the new regime. Their rapidly deteriorating
condition in unsanitary, makeshift camps drew widespread media attent
ion, and the international community, which had done little more than
watch as the genocide unfolded mounted a major relief operation that e
ventually cast a million dollars a day. The killers, however, quickly
established themselves as the camps' dominant military and political f
orce. Siphoning off money and supplies meant for the refugees, they be
gan launching cross-border incursions into Rwanda and conducting pogro
ms against indigenous Zairian Tutsi, among whom were a group called th
e Banyamulenge. Matters came to a head in October 1996, when Rwanda in
vaded eastern Zaire, dispersed the camps, and sparked a revolt by the
Banyamulenge that quickly drew support from a wide range of Zairians f
ed up With the dictatorship of Mobutu Sese Seko. This rebellion or inc
ursion-it remains unclear which is the move appropriate term-progresse
d with uncanny rapidity from one end of the country to the other and a
long the way acquired a lender named Laurent Desire Kabila, a former M
arxist rebel and gold smuggler of dubious credentials. Kabila's troops
, the Alliance of Democratic Forces for the Liberation of Congo (ADFL)
, entered Kinshasa on May 17, 1997, prompting guarded enthusiasm, loca
lly and internationally, for the future of the country. But what would
Kabila's accession mean far Zaire-now renamed the Democratic Republic
of Conga? What challenges confronted the new regime and how did it pl
an to meet them, Would there be, as Kabila kept promising, democracy,
an end to human rights abuses, even, perhaps, some measure of prosperi
ty How did Zairians view the new regime? Was this, in fact, a change f
or the better? Was Kabila even in charge I traveled to Kinshasa in Jun
e of this year, seeking some preliminary answers to these questions.