Ma. Srokosz, A NEW STATISTICAL DISTRIBUTION FOR THE SURFACE ELEVATION OF WEAKLY NONLINEAR WATER-WAVES, Journal of physical oceanography, 28(1), 1998, pp. 149-155
A new statistical distribution for the surface elevation of weakly non
linear water waves is derived using the Pearson System of distribution
s. The new distribution avoids some problems associated with previousl
y proposed distributions. Namely, its probability density function is
positive everywhere, unlike prior results obtained with Gram-Charlier
series. Furthermore, it is derived without requiring the assumptions t
hat the wavefield is unidirectional and narrow band, as made in some e
arlier studies. The distribution obtained is a form of the beta distri
bution and depends only on two parameters, the variance and the skewne
ss of the sea surface elevation. The new distribution is compared to w
ave data, measured on a reservoir, and found to give a reasonable fit.