INFLUENCE OF GLYCEROL-CONTAINING OINTMENT S ON STRATUM-CORNEUM QUALITY

The effects of glycerol are discussed in detail. Glycerol can lead to a transition of crystalline lipid structures within the horny layer li pids into liquid crystalline states. Especially if applied in oil/wate r-emulsions it improves, the hydration of the horny layers better than urea. In addition, if facilitates the dissolution of desmosomes withi n the superior layers of the horny layer enhancing desquamation. Furth ermore, by using glycerol, the mechanical properties of the skin can b e influenced; long term used leads to increased elasticity. The roughn ess of the horny layer is reduced, which can be explained by the abras ive and/or the hydrating effect. Glycerol used in o/w-emulsions also p rotects against the influence of tensides or noxious lipophilic agents . Presumably a flux from the base of the epidermis towards its surface triggers the regeneration of the barrier. Finally, glycerol can lead - similarly to urea - to an improvement in active agent penetration, a s has been proven for hexylnicotinate.