Although spices have been important for centuries in food preparation
throughout the world, patterns of spice use differ considerably among
cultures and countries. What factors underlie these differences ? Why
are spices used at all? To investigate these questions, we quantified
the frequency of use of 43 spices in the meat-based cuisines of the 36
countries for which we could locate traditional cookbooks. A total of
4578 recipes from 93 cookbooks was analysed. We also compiled informa
tion on the temperature and precipitation in each country, the ranges
of spice plants, and the antibacterial properties of each spice. These
data were used to investigate the hypothesis that spices inhibit or k
ill food-spoilage microorganisms. In support of this is the fact that
spice plant secondary compounds are powerful antimicrobial (i.e., anti
bacterial and antifungal) agents. As mean annual temperatures (an indi
cator of relative spoilage rates of unrefrigerated foods) increased th
e proportion of recipes containing slices, number of spices per recipe
, total number of spices used, and use of the most potent antibacteria
l spices all increased, both within and among countries. Likewise the
estimated fraction of bacterial species inhibited per recipe in each c
ountry was positively correlated with annual temperature. Several alte
rnative hypotheses were considered-that spices provide macronutrients,
disguise the taste and smell of spoiled foods, or increase perspirati
on and thus evaporative cooling; it also is conceivable that spice use
provides no benefits. However, none of these four alternatives was we
ll supported by our data. The proximate reason spices are used obvious
ly is to enhance food palatability. But the ultimate reason is most li
kely that spices help cleanse foods of pathogens and thereby contribut
e to the health, longevity and reproductive success of people who find
their flavors enjoyable.