AN OCEAN WAVE TRANSFORMATION MODEL FOR SHALLOW WATERS

In this paper a coastal wave transformation model is presented. The im plementation of different wave theories and the terms for refraction, shoaling, bottom friction, percolation, viscous dissipation and wave b reaking are described. A few trial runs of the model have been made wi th various deep water wave characteristics. The change in characterist ics of a shoreward propagating wave is as expected. A comparative stud y of model derived wave heights with satellite altimeter wave heights is also done. It is found that model derived wave heights follow the s ame trend as altimeter wave heights; and thus confirms the validity of the model for estimation of shallow water wave heights.