G. Masselink, FIELD INVESTIGATION OF WAVE-PROPAGATION OVER A BAR AND THE CONSEQUENTGENERATION OF SECONDARY WAVES, Coastal engineering, 33(1), 1998, pp. 1-9
field experiment was conducted to monitor the generation of secondary
waves on a barred beach. The results show the decomposition of breakin
g incident swell into 4-6 smaller and shorter waves upon entering the
deeper water landward of the bar. The consequent blue-shifting of the
wave spectrum results in a decrease in the significant wave period and
may further delay the dissipation of wave energy. It is inferred that
secondary waves are a common phenomenon on barred benches, in particu
lar when the incident wave period is large and the seaward slope of th
e bar is gentle. (C) 1998 Elsevier Science B.V.