ESTIMATION OF WAVE DIRECTIONAL SPREADING IN SHALLOW-WATER

This paper describes wave directional spreading in shallow water. Wave s were measured for a period of 2 months using the Datawell directiona l waverider buoy at 15 m water depth on the east coast of India in the Bay of Bengal. The study also showed that in shallow water wave direc tional spreading was narrowest at peak frequency and widened towards l ower and higher frequencies. The wind direction was found to deviate f rom the wave direction during most of the time. The unidirectional spe ctrum was found to be satisfactorily represented by Scott spectra. (C) 1998 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.