Solitary waves on a Cretan beach

In this paper, we describe experiments and computer simulations of the run- up and return of a solitary wave traveling over shallowing water and then o nto a dry beach backed by a vertical wall. This topography is similar to th at of beaches on the north coast of Crete, where narrow coastal plains are backed by steeply rising mountains. The experiments show that the solitary wave collapses onto the dry beach without curling over. It then flows to th e vertical wall where it rises up, splashes, curls over, and finally return s as a turbulent bore. On reaching the original water's edge, the bore prod uces a zig-zag surface perturbation. The simulations reproduce the experime nts accurately.