Objective evaluation of pucker in three-dimensional garment seams

This paper considers the objective evaluation of seam puckering on three-di mensional garments. In order to simulate garment surfaces in three dimensio ns, seamed samples are supported on five different surfaces: plane (both wi th and without tilt) and curved (both convex and concave). A set of five sa mples having seams with varying degrees of pucker are prepared from each of five fabrics, and profiles parallel to the seams are measured using a lase r distance scanner. These profiles are then filtered using a band-pass Cheb yshev filter (where the "frequencies" are measured in cycles/m) to remove t he high-frequency component contributed by the individual threads or fabric texture and the low-frequency component contributed by the shape of the sa mple. These band-pass filtered profiles are analyzed by calculating four st atistical parameters and comparing these with the subjective AATCC grades. Excellent correlation is obtained for two of the parameters with the subjec tive pucker grades.