An inter-site comparison of net offshore bar migration characteristics andenvironmental conditions

Citation
Rd. Shand et al., An inter-site comparison of net offshore bar migration characteristics andenvironmental conditions, J COAST RES, 15(3), 1999, pp. 750-765
Citations number
79
Categorie Soggetti
Environment/Ecology
Journal title
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH
ISSN journal
07490208 → ACNP
Volume
15
Issue
3
Year of publication
1999
Pages
750 - 765
Database
ISI
SICI code
0749-0208(199922)15:3<750:AICONO>2.0.ZU;2-P
Abstract
In this paper we quantitatively identify behavioural characteristics of net offshore bar migration (NOM) and present the results of an inter-site comp arison. The net offshore migration of sandbars on multi-bar coasts has been reported at sites on the Dutch coast. the eastern USA seaboard, and the Ne w Zealand west coast. The NOM phenomenon is repetitive, with-the life-cycle of each bar consisting of three stages: bar generation near the shore-line (stage 1), systematic offshore migration of the bar across the surf zone ( stage 2), and finally bar disappearance in the outer surf zone (stage 3). T he NOM sites are on multi-bar coasts with relatively short period waves and a narrow range of storm strength mind and wave conditions. They encompass a wide range of geometrical dimensions, physical boundary conditions and wi nd and wave approach angles relative to the shoreline. Parameters measuring migration width, duration, return period and rate of NOM are used to ident ify bar migrational characteristics for each stage. There is wide variation in the parameter values, both between the zones representing the NOM stage s at each site, and between corresponding zones at different sites. NOM dur ation for stage 2 is identified as the system index parameter. An inter-sit e correlation analysis between NOM duration and key environmental parameter s shows NOM activity to increase, i.e. NOM duration decreases, with increas ing nearshore slope and decreasing wave height. NOM duration also decreases when the predominant wind direction tends towards a maximum of 40 to 45 de grees from the coastline. It is suggested that bar size and longshore curre nts influence NOM and possible mechanisms are discussed.