The winemaking process includes two main steps: lactic acid bacteria are re
sponsible for the malolactic fermentation which follows the alcoholic ferme
ntation by yeasts. Both types of microorganisms are present on grapes and o
n cellar equipment. Yeasts are better adapted to growth in grape must than
lactic acid bacteria, so the alcoholic fermentation starts quickly. In must
, up to ten lactic acid bacteria species can be identified. They belong to
the Lactobacillus, Pediococcus, Leuconostoc and Oenococcus genera. Througho
ut alcoholic fermentation, a natural selection occurs and finally the domin
ant species is O. oeni, due to interactions between yeasts and bacteria and
between bacteria themselves. After bacterial growth, when the population i
s over 10(6)CFU/ml, malolactic transformation is the obvious change in wine
composition. However, many other substrates can be metabolized. Some like
remaining sugars and citric acid are always assimilated by lactic acid bact
eria, thus providing them with energy and carbon. Other substrates such as
some amino acids may be used following pathways restricted to strains carry
ing the adequate enzymes. Some strains can also produce exopolysaccharides.
All these transformations greatly influence the sensory and hygienic quali
ty of wine. Malic acid transformation is encouraged because it induces deac
idification. Diacetyl produced from citric acid is also helpful to some ext
ent. Sensory analyses show that many other reactions change the aromas and
make malolactic fermentation beneficial, but they are as yet unknown. On th
e contrary, an excess of acetic acid, the synthesis of glucane, biogenic am
ines and precursors of ethylcarbamate are undesirable. Fortunately, lactic
acid bacteria normally multiply in dry wines; moreover some of these activi
ties are not widespread. Moreover, the most striking trait of wine lactic a
cid bacteria is their capacity to adapt to a hostile environment. The mecha
nisms for this are not yet completely elucidated . Molecular biology has pr
ovided some explanations for the behaviour and the metabolism of bacteria i
n wine. New tools are now available to detect the presence of desirable and
undesirable strains. Even if much remains unknown, winemakers and oenologi
sts can nowadays better control the process. By acting upon the diverse mic
roflora and grape musts, they are more able to produce healthy and pleasant
wines.