Numerical simulation of ocean waves for statistical analysis

A review is made on the numerical simulation technique of ocean surface wav e profiles under a given spectral form. Two standard frequency spectral fun ctions are given, and the statistical characteristics of wave heights and p eriods are examined from a barge number of simulated wave profiles. The eff ects of spectral shapes on the representative heights and periods are prese nted in tabular forms. The statistical variability of significant wave heig ht, mean period, and others obtained from one record are shown to be invers ely proportional to the square root of the number of waves in a record. Fro m the spatial simulation of wave profiles, the length and height of wave cr ests are defined and their statistical characteristics are examined. Commen ts are made on the preparation of the wave generator control signals for 3- D wave basins. A possibility of randomly varying infragravity wave motion i s discussed with an example.