The ability of three matrices to model the barrier properties of the lipid
domain of stratum corneum (SC) against permeation of seven steroids was stu
died. Model matrices were water and oleic acid/oleate; a mixture of unsatur
ated and saturated fatty acids/soap; or a more complex matrix also containi
ng phospholipids, sphingolipids, cholesterol and ceramides.
Permeability coefficients (K) were similar in the three models, supporting
the hypothesis that the barrier to steroid permeation is determined by the
structural organization of the lipids, not by the chemical structure of ind
ividual substances. Parabolic relationships were found between K values and
octanol/water partition coefficients (P-oct) of the steroids, with an opti
mum permeability at log P-oct of 3.0. All three models showed good resistan
ce to permeability by steroids.
The effects of cationic, anionic and non-ionic surfactants on the permeabil
ity of hydrocortisone within the water oleic acid/oleate matrix were also i
nvestigated. Permeability increased with anionic surfactants, decreased wit
h cationic surfactants and varied little with non-ionic surfactants. The ma
trices tested appeared able to model the effect of surfactants on the perme
ability of hydrocortisone through the SC.