Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking, end runup. I: 1D

Parts I and II of this paper describe the extension and testing of two sets of Boussinesq-type equations to include surf zone phenomena. Part I is res tricted to 1D tests of shoaling, breaking, and runup, while Part II deals w ith two horizontal dimensions. The model uses two main extensions to the Bo ussinesq equations: a momentum-conserving eddy viscosity technique to model breaking, and a "slotted beach," which simulates a shoreline while allowin g computations over a regular domain. Bottom friction is included, using a quadratic representation, while the 2D implementation of the model also con siders subgrid mixing. Comparisons with experimental results for regular an d irregular wave shoaling, breaking and runup for both one and two horizont al dimensions show good agreement for a variety of wave conditions.