Suitability of leather for garments - Differences in selected properties attributable to processing and sampling location

Test methods (FAST) developed to assess the suitability of woven materials for use in tailored garments were applied to different types of lightweight ovine garment leather, where the differences were derived from processing. A 3(3) factorial experimental design with the kind of leather (nappa, nubu ck, suede), its thickness (0.8, 0.9, 1.1 mm), and the duration of dry drumm ing during processing (0, 45, 120 minutes), was used to identify factors an d interactions among factors likely to affect the construction and appearan ce of leather garments. Specimens were cut from different locations and ori entations on the skins. The location and orientation of the specimen had a more significant effect on physical properties than the processing variable s. The garment leather was generally heavier, stiffer, and more extensible than woven fabrics recommended for use in tailored garments, and these prop erties may cause problems in garment manufacture and use. Variation of thes e properties was comparable to (but slightly larger than) that for batches of suiting textiles.