Experimental study of wave breaking on gentle slope

An experimental study of regular wave and irregular wave breaking is perfor med on a gentle slope of 1:200, In the experiment, asymmetry of wave profil e is analyzed to determine its effect on wave breaker indices and to explai n the difference between Goda and Nelson about the breaker indices of regul ar waves on very mild slopes. The study shows that the breaker index of irr egular waves is under less influence of bottom slope l, relative water dept h d/ L-0 and the asymmetry of wave profile than that of regular waves. The breaker index of regular waves from Goda may be used in the case of irregul ar waves, while the coefficient A should be 0.15. The ratio of irregular wa velength to the length calculated by linear wave theory is 0.74. Analysis i s also made on the waveheight damping coefficient of regular waves after br eaking and on the breaking probability of large irregular waves.