Partial standing waves on a steep slope

Measured free surface elevations and horizontal velocities of non-breaking regular waves on a 1:2 rough permeable slope are analyzed to examine the cr oss-shore variations of the incident and reflected waves on the steep slope . The co-located measurements of the free surface elevation and horizontal Velocities at a number of elevations are used to separate the incident and reflected waves locally. The estimated partial standing waves are then show n to describe the local free surface elevation and horizontal velocity reas onably well. The incident wave energy flux is found to be approximately con stant along the 1:2 slope, whereas the data and linear theory are not accur ate enough to detect the cross-shore Variation of the relative small wave r eflection coefficient. The measured mean horizontal velocities are shown to be in qualitative agreement with the return current estimated from the sep arated incident and reflected waves.