Wave numerical model for shallow water

The history of forecasting wind waves by wave energy conservation equation Is briefly described. Several currently used wave numerical models for shal low water based on different wave theories are discussed. Wave energy conse rvation models for the simulation of shallow water waves are introduced, wi th emphasis placed on the SWAN model, which takes use of the most advanced wave research achievements and has been applied to several theoretical and field conditions. The characteristics and applicability of the model, the f inite difference numerical scheme of the action balance equation and its so urce terms computing methods are described in detail. The model has been ve rified with the propagation refraction numerical experiments for waves prop agating in following and opposing currents; finally, the model is applied t o the Haian Gulf area to simulate the wave height and wave period field the re, and the results are compared with observed data.