The effect of circumferential taping on flexor tendon pulley failure in rock climbers

The purpose of this study was to determine whether circumferential taping o f the base of the finger increases the A2 pulley's load to failure in a mod el simulating a rock climber's grip. Nine pairs of fresh-frozen cadaveric h ands, 20 to 47 years of age, were rigidly mounted in a specialized jig that maintained the finger in the climber's "crimp" position. Two of the four f ingers of each hand were reinforced over the A2 pulley with three wraps of cloth adhesive tape. The flexor digitortrm profundus and superficialis tend ons were distracted until pulley or tendon failure. Overall, A2 pulley stre ngth was greater in male specimens than in female specimens, and the A2 pul ley of the small finger was the weakest tested. The A2 pulley failed simult aneously with the A3 and A4 pulleys in 55% of the tests. In the remaining t rials, a single pulley failed initially followed by the remainder of the sh eath. Of the 72 fingers studied, complete data were available for compariso n of 22 pairs of fingers. No statistically significant difference in load t o A2 pulley failure was noted between the taped and untaped finger pairs. B ased on our findings we do not support taping the base of the fingers as a prophylactic measure against flexor tendon sheath injury in the climbing at hlete.