Modeling of velocities in giant waves

The unexpected occurrence of unusually large waves has been documented on n umerous occasions. In this study, the nonlinear packet-focusing technique, modified to account for an opposing current, is used to generate steep, plu nging waves in a laboratory flume. The kinematics of these waves are measur ed just upwave of the onset of plunging. These results are compared to thos e of a superposition model, a modified stretching model and a model based o n a Stokes 3rd-order theory developed for the present study. The present mo del represents the velocity beneath the plunging breakers significantly bet ter than the other two models.