The sense of taste lies at the interface between the external and internal
milieux, at the point at which the animal must decide which chemicals from
the environment to incorporate into itself. Accordingly, taste is organized
along a neural dimension of nutrients versus toxins, which corresponds to
a behavioral dimension of acceptance versus rejection, and to a hedonic dim
ension of appetitive versus aversive qualities. Reflexive responses; cognit
ive analyses, and hedonic reactions appear to be managed at different level
s of the nervous system. At the first central relay, the nucleus of the sol
itary tract, somatic reflexes for acceptance or rejection, and autonomic re
flexes anticipating digestion are orchestrated. At the second, the parabrac
hial nucleus of the rodent, associative mechanisms important to the develop
ment of conditioned aversions and sodium appetite are manifested. In the th
alamic taste relay, gustatory memories associated with non-visceral events
may be formed. Primary taste cortex appears to be the site for a cognitive
evaluation of gustatory quality and intensity. Finally, a hedonic assessmen
t of the chemical may be made in secondary taste cortex and in the ventral
forebrain sites to which it projects. With this assessment comes integratio
n of the gustatory signal with those from other senses, perhaps to create a
perception of flavor. Therefore, a sequence that begins with an analysis o
f the molecular structure of a chemical in the mouth serves to incorporate
that gustatory component into an appreciation of flavor, and to participate
in the control of motivational processes that guide dietary selection. Nut
rition 2000;16: 874-885. (C) Elsevier Science Inc. 2000.