Citation
Yc. Li et al., Transformation and breaking of irregular waves on very gentle slopes, CHINA O ENG, 14(3), 2000, pp. 261-278
Citations number
12
Categorie Soggetti
Civil Engineering
Journal title
CHINA OCEAN ENGINEERING
ISSN journal
08905487
→ ACNP
Volume
14
Issue
3
Year of publication
2000
Pages
261 - 278
Database
ISI
SICI code
0890-5487(2000)14:3<261:TABOIW>2.0.ZU;2-Q
Abstract
Based on theoretical analysis, numerical calculation, and experimental stud
y. this paper discusses breaker indices of irregular waves, transformation
of wave spectrum, characteristics and computation of breaking waves, as wel
l as the critical beach slope under which waves will not break. Computed re
sults are in good agreement with laboratory physical model test data and oc
ean wave field measurements.