Objective bioengineering methods to assess the effects of moisturizers on xerotic leg skin of elderly people

BACKGROUND: Dry, itchy, scaly skin is a common and distressing problem for elderly people. The regression method is commonly employed to compare the e fficacy of moisturizers. However, this method relies solely on clinical est imates of scale removal and provides no information on the structural and f unctional changes of the stratum corneum. METHODS: We compared a commercial 15% glycolic acid lotion (NeoStrata) with a traditional water in oil emulsion containing a mixture of lanolin alcoho ls. mineral oil, ana petrolatum (Eucerin cream). These were applied twice d aily for 6 weeks to the xerotic legs of elderly women. A variety of methods were used to assess the effects on the horny layer barrier. RESULTS: The time to induce burning by chloroform:methanol was decreased by NeoStrata and increased by Eucerin. Transepidermal water loss increased af ter NeoStrata treatment and decreased after Eucerin treatment. The stratum corneum was more resistant to NaOH erosions with Eucerin but remained uncha nged with NeoStrata. Dimethyl sulfoxide whealing decreased with Eucerin but was unchanged with NeoStrata, The inflammatory reaction to sodium lauryl s ulfate was diminished by Eucerin and increased by NeoStrata. CONCLUSION: Both treatments were equally effective in smoothing the surface . However, the glycolic acid lotion weakened the stratum corneum barrier in contrast with Eucerin, which enhanced it.