Beauty therapy as an industry is multi-faceted; as a set of practices it is
complex. The beauty industry has been the subject of much critique but com
paratively little empirical study. Based upon research with beauty therapis
ts themselves, this article investigates the complex relationship between f
emininity and beauty. The beauty industry is located within debates about t
he body and leisure. The growth in the beauty industry is also linked to th
e commodification of body practices. Despite remaining critical of the role
of beauty in the lives of women, we also emphasise the fact that women are
not 'cultural dopes' (Davis, 1991). The actual experiences of beauty treat
ments and the testimonies of women involved in the industry paint a picture
of competing discourses and contradictory outcomes. This is not least beca
use both clients and therapists deny being concerned with beauty, but rathe
r aim to provide 'pampering', 'treatment' or 'grooming'. The beauty salon m
ay be seen as the site of both compliance with, and escape from, a feminine
ideal. The role of class, ethnicity and age in breaking down the monolithi
cal concept of beauty and in fragmenting the experiences of beauty practice
s are also discussed.