The SWAN model used to study wave evolution in a flume

The SWAN numerical model is used to model the evolution of JONSWAP wave spe ctra and hence the significant wave height of waves in a tank. Comparison w ith experiment has shown that modelling triad interactions in the numerical model leads to too low predictions of spectra and significant wave height and should therefore be excluded. The modelling of the breaking constant wa s also investigated, by looking at the use of a constant breaking constant, Nelson formula, and Goda formula (added into SWAN for this study). Using a constant value of 0.78 within SWAN gave the best comparison between theory and experiment. (C) 2001 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.