Producing specific milks for speciality cheeses

Protected denomination of origin (PDO) cheeses have distinctive sensorial c haracteristics. They can be made only from raw milk possessing specific fea tures, which is processed through the 'art of the cheesemaker. In general, the distinctive sensorial traits of PDO cheese cannot be achieved under dif ferent environmental-production conditions for two main reasons: (1) some m ilk features are linked to specific animal production systems: (2) cheese r ipening is affected by the interaction between milk (specific) and the trad itional technology applied to the transformation process (non-specific). Al so, the environment for a good ripening stage can be quite specific and not reproducible. With reference to milk, factors of typicality are species an d/or breed, pedoclimatic conditions, animal management system and feeding. Other factors that influence cheese quality are milk treatments, milk proce ssing and the ripening procedures. The technology applied to most cheeses c urrently known as PDO utilizes only raw milk, rennet and natural lactic aci d bacteria, so that milk must be, at its origin, suitable for processing. T he specific milk characteristics that ensure a high success rate for PDO ch eeses are high protein content and good renneting properties, appropriate f at content with appropriate fatty acid composition and the presence of chem ical flavours originating from local feeds. Moreover, an appropriate microf lora is also of major importance. The factors that contribute to achieving milk suitable for transformation into PDO cheese are genetics, age, lactati on stage, season and climate, general management and health conditions, mil king and particularly feeding, which affect nutrient availability, endocrin e response and health status, and also the presence of microbes and chemica l substances which enrich or reduce the milk-cheese quality. Many of these factors are regulated by the Producer Associations. However, the secret of the success of PDO cheeses is the combination of modem technology and tradi tion, with the objective of adapting the product to market demand, without losing specificity, originality and authenticity.