Objectives-To determine the frequency of overuse injury in indoor climbers,
the common sites of such injury, and the factors that influence the probab
ility that a climber will have sustained an overuse injury while climbing i
ndoors.
Method-A semisupervised questionnaire was used to survey overuse injury in
295 spectators and competitors at the Entre-Prises World Climbing Champions
hips held in Birmingham 3-5 December 1999. Statistical analysis included si
mple cross tabulations, calculation of odds ratios, and multiple logistic r
egression to explore the effect of several factors simultaneously.
Results-Some 44% of respondents had sustained an overuse injury, 19% at mor
e than one site. The most common site of injury was the fingers. Univariate
analysis showed that the probability of having sustained a climbing injury
is higher in men (p = 0.009), those who have climbed for more than 10 year
s (p = 0.006), those who climb harder routes (p <0.0005), and those who bou
lder or Lead more than they top rope (p <0.0005). The relation between lead
grade and climbing injury is linear. Multivariate analysis removed the eff
ect of sex as an independent predictor.
Conclusions-Many climbers sustain overuse injury. The most at risk are thos
e with the most ability and dedication to climbing. Climbers should be awar
e of the risk factors that influence injury and be able to spot the signs a
nd symptoms of injury once they occur.