Enzyme-retting of flax and characterization of processed fibers

Enzyme-retting formulations consisting of Viscozyme L, a pectinase-rich com mercial enzyme product, and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) were tes ted on Ariane fiber flax and North Dakota seed flax straw residue. Flax ste ms that were crimped to disrupt the outer layers were soaked with various p roportions of Viscozyme-EDTA solutions, retted, and then cleaned and cotton ized with commercial processing equipment. Fiber properties were determined and crude test yams were made of raw and Shirley cleaned flax fibers and c otton in various blend levels. Cleaned fibers were obtained from both seed and fiber flax types, but with variations due to treatment. Retting formula tions produced fibers having different properties, with enzyme levels of 0. 3% (v/v as supplied) giving finer but weaker fibers than 0.05% regardless o f EDTA level. Experimental yams of blended flax and cotton fibers varied in mass coefficient of variation, single end strength, and nep imperfections due to sample and formulation. With cost, and fiber and yarn quality as cri teria, results established a range in the amounts of components comprising retting formulations as a basis for further studies to optimize enzyme-rett ing formulations for flax. Under conditions examined herein, Viscozyme L at 0.3% (v/v) plus 25 mM EDTA produced the best test yarns and, therefore, es tablished a base for future studies to develop commercial-grade, short stap le flax fibers for use in textiles. (C) 2001 Published by Elsevier Science B.V.