During the 1980s, everybody marveled at Benetton, the Italian casual-wear c
ompany with a penchant for provocative advertising. The archetypal network
organization, it used subcontractors and independent agents for production
processes, distribution and retail. But recognizing that times change, Bene
tton decided on a new approach - in advance of external pressures. Without
giving up the strongest aspects of its networked model, it is integrating a
nd centralizing, instituting direct control over key processes throughout t
he supply chain. The company also is diversifying into sportswear, sports e
quipment and communications.
Vertical integration has meant establishing state-of-the-art production pol
es in Benetton's foreign locations. The Castrette pole, near its headquarte
rs, decides what each of the foreign poles should produce (on the basis of
the skills and experience of the local population), and the foreign poles c
ontract out production tasks. Benetton also has increased its upstream vert
ical integration to exercise greater control over its supply of textiles an
d thread. At the retail end, the company is supplementing its network of sm
all, independently owned shops with large, directly controlled mega-stores.
To stay ahead of fashion's ever-changing whims, Benetton is streamlining i
ts brands and collections, supplementing two basic collections with smaller
, flash collections.
In its recently acquired sports businesses, Benetton has invested in high-t
ech systems for designing sports equipment and has brought together designe
rs from around the world for creative cross-fertilization. It has also reor
ganized its production processes and improved its retail network by establi
shing Benetton "corners" in the large sports shops of major distribution ch
ains.
In the field of communications, Benetton's Fabrica workshop has produced aw
ard-winning films, and its new company, United Web, hopes to take advantage
of the possibilities of e-commerce.
Benetton knows that innovative businesses must pay attention to how knowled
ge is divided among producers, suppliers and retailers. Its new directions
represent a major discontinuity from its past and divergence from industry
practices.