Fluorescence excitation spectroscopy was used to assess cellular turnover i
n human skin by monitoring changes of endogenous fluorescence. Epidermal pr
oliferation was induced with alpha -hydroxy acids. Commercially available g
lycolic acid creams (8 and 4% wt/wt concentration) and a vehicle cream (pla
cebo) were applied in a randomized double blinded fashion on subjects' fore
arms, twice daily for 21 days. Excitation spectra were recorded (excitation
250-360 nm, emission 380 nm) at days 0, 1, 3, 7, 10, 11, 14, 17 and 21, Th
e 295 nm excitation band (assigned to tryptophan moieties) was used in this
study as a marker for cellular proliferation, To further reduce the day-to
day variability of the skin fluorescence the intensity of the 295 nm band w
as normalized to the 334 nm band (assigned to collagen crosslinks), The flu
orescence emission intensity from placebo-treated skin remained practically
unchanged over the period of the measurements while the fluorescence inten
sity measured from the glycolic acid-treated skin increased monotonically w
ith treatment. The rate of increase of the excitation intensity with treatm
ent was found to be dose dependent. The epidermal 295 nm band may be used a
s a quantitative marker to monitor the rate of proliferation of epidermal k
eratinocytes noninvasively.